A Flowery Song

Background: Spiced pear melomel from Sandhill Crane Vineyards in the lovely prison town of Jackson. If you’re wondering, melomel is a category of mead made with fruit, but that fruit is not grapes (which would be a pyment) or apples (cyser). Ah, the wild and wacky world of mead categories. This particular mead is made with local honey, locally grown pears, and some cinnamon (spiced meads are also called metheglins).

Nose: Lovely aroma of honey and cinnamon. Very fruity, with lightly floral influences.

Taste: Smooth and spicy. Hard to pick out any specifically pear influence, especially with the high amount of residual sugar. But there’s soft fruit there, along with musky honey, citrus, and some cinnamon.

Overall: Very nice, but unless you fancy going into a sugar coma this is best enjoyed in small amounts.

Background: This resinated white is made from a blend of Savatiano and Roditis, according to the winemaker’s website. At least I think that’s what it says; I don’t actually speak Greek, so other than picking out Σαββατιανό and Ροδίτης I’m at a loss.

Nose: Fresh mown grass, with fir tree overtones.

Taste: Musky and floral, with a lightly acid bite. Earthy, resinous…resin.

Overall: Possibly the best retsina available locally, well balanced and pairing well with fatty fish (or even leftover pizza).

Background: Apparently one of the most popular wines in Greece, though that could just be marketing bumpf. Like most retsina, it’s made from Savatiano and like all retsina, it’s additionally flavoured with pine resin.

Nose: Musky floral scent.

Taste: Fruity and lacking in acidity, with a bit of pine.

Overall: Not impressed.

Background: Aged on French oak for eight months.

Nose: Cherries and strawberries, earthy hints of mushroom.

Taste: Light red fruit, light hints of oak. Grapefruit pith on the finish.

Overall: Not great. The most disappointing wine I’ve had from St. Julian, particularly a disappointment since the Braganini Reserve are supposed to be their showcase wines. It’s light and drinkable, but lacks the spicy richness of a great Pinot Noir.

Background: Made from a blend of local Massachusetts apples including McIntosh.

Nose: Floral apples and earthy wet leaves.

Taste: Clean appley taste, light acidity and a hint of sweetness.

Overall: I like it.

Background: Yes, it’s another cider from the folks that brought you Newton’s Folly. According to the website, this is made from a blend of Granny Smith and European cider apples.

Nose: Slightly appley.

Taste: Lightly effervescent, fairly dry with a nice malic tartness and decent apple flavour.

Overall: Light and refreshing, but there’s not much to it.

Background: Inexpensive white wine from the Rías Baixas region of Galicia in northwestern Spain.

Nose: Apple and nectarine.

Taste: Crisp and cleanly fruity, with a rich mouthfeel and a mild acidic backbone.

Overall: Clean crisp wine for a cool crisp evening. Decent.

Background: Dry white representative from St. Julian’s line of inexpensive wines; the “St. J” wines are generally priced in the $5-$8 range from the winery, slightly higher from a retailer (not that any of their wines are likely to break the bank). Fermentation in 80% stainless steel, 20% neutral oak; aged five months on the lees.

Nose: Musty nectarines and lemons.

Taste: Fruity and dry, with notes of tart green apple and cherry. Plenty of acidity.

Overall: Nothing outstanding; food-friendly and easygoing.

Background: Well fancy that, a meadery practically next door. However, given Michigan’s lack of large groves of citrus trees, the honey that goes into this particular mead is fairly conspicuously not a local product. They do have at least one mead made with Michigan-sourced wildflower honey, and what really matters for this mead is how it tastes not the source of the ingredients. Aged on American oak for an unspecified length of time.

Nose: Leaning more towards the fruity than the floral, with cherry and citrus aromas.

Taste: Pleasant but not overpowering sweetness, gentle fruit and the barest hint of tannic oak.

Overall: Doesn’t go overboard on the sweetness, unlike some commercial meads I could name. Even so, it doesn’t have enough complexity or a good finish for sipping, so it’s more of a food wine.

The mission: “[F]ind something reputed to be Fine Kosher Wine”

I actually studied up on kosher wines about a year ago, but didn’t write up what I learned at the time.

First things first: what makes a wine kosher? Well, kosher wine will carry a hechsher from an authority certifying that it was produced in accord with kashrus, which is the portion of halakha (Jewish religious law) dealing with dietary concerns. This mark indicates that any additives (such as fining agents) were kosher, production was supervised by the appropriate overseers (called mashgichim), and the wine is either mevushal or every step of the production was done by an observant Jew. This all has to do with the historic use of wine in idolatrous religious practises and the strict prohibition in the Torah of the use of such wine (yayin nesach), as well as a Rabbinical injunction against the use of unsupervised wine (stam yaynom).

Mevushal means “cooked” or “boiled”. Once a wine is mevushal it can be handled by non-Jews without losing its kosher status. Wine can be rendered mevushal at any stage after the press, but in the US most mevushal wine is heated prior to fermentation. Mevushal can broadly be taken as synonymous with pasteurised and follows the same procedure; thus, in modern production flash pasteurisation is seen as a way to reduce or eliminate the deleterious effects of heating the wine. While it definitely will help stability from a microbial standpoint, opinions are divided: some claim that flash heating has a positive effect on the wine’s character, while others claim that it reduces the aging potential and gives the wine a cooked fruit character.

There’s actually another level to kosher certification, which has to do with Passover. At Passover kashrut becomes even more restrictive, so a wine can be kosher for other times but not for Passover. If a wine just says “kosher”, it’s not suitable for use during Pesach; it must specifically say “kosher for Passover”.
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