A Flowery Song

The Session #26 – Smoke ‘Em If You Got ‘Em

by Paul Arthur on Apr.03, 2009, under ale, barleywine, barrel aged beer, beer, lager, rauchbier, single malt, smoked beer, spirit, whisky

J.W. Lees 2007 Harvest and Spezial Rauchbier LagerThe Mission: “You’ve got three weeks, is what I’m saying: go find a smoked beer.” Direct and to the point.

Probably the most well-known example of a smoked beer is the German rauchbier, where a portion of the malt used is dried over a beechwood fire. The other widely available smoked malt is peated malt, while various craft brewers have smoked their own malt over anything from apple wood to alder wood (okay, so that’s not all that far).

A less traditional method, while not something I’ve heard of being used, would be to directly smoke the beer itself.

The second beer I’ll be covering is an example of second-hand smoke. I’m sure everyone’s heard of barrel-aged beer, but how many of you have considered that it introduces two possible sources for a smoky flavour? First, whisky barrels are usually charred before use, which can carry over into any beer aged in them. Second, what if the barrel came from a heavily peat-smoked whisky like Bruichladdich or Lagavulin? Even a less smoky whisky such as Highland Park introduces some smoke character.


Spezial Rauchbier Lager
Background: One of five beers (four of them smoked) produced by Brauerei-Spezial in Bamberg, Germany. A traditional rauchbier.

Nose: Restrained wood smoke, high notes of fruit.

Taste: Grainy, almost caramel malt with a solid hit of wood smoke.

Overall: Not as smoky as some, but also has less other things going on. All in all, excellently balanced and very sessionable.

J. W. Lees Harvest Ale Matured in Lagavulin Whisky Casks 2007
Background: J. W. Lees releases their Harvest ale every December in five expressions: one plain and (beginning around 2003) four barrel-aged in casks that formerly held sherry, port, whisky, or calvados.

Pouring note: Had some fluffy lees, so care in decanting is indicated.

Nose: Pronounced peat aroma accompanied by dried apple and orange peel.

Taste: Heavy smoke with a bacon edge, a fair amount of fruity sweetness and some light bitterness on an earthy, peaty background. Dry, lasting finish of smoke and leaf mould.

Overall: Really and truly excellent. Layered flavours; lots of smoke, but enough other complexity that it doesn’t come across as one-note.

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